Olive Oil’s Dark Side (New Yorker)
In the August 13, 2007, issue of the magazine, Tom Mueller wrote about
corruption in the olive-oil trade. By the late nineteen-nineties, olive oil–
often cut with cheaper oils, such as hazelnut and sunflower seed–was the most
adulterated agricultural product in the European Union. The E.U.’s anti-fraud
office established an olive-oil task force, “yet fraud remains a major
international problem,” Mueller wrote. “Olive oil is far more valuable than
most other vegetable oils, but it is costly and time-consuming to produce–and
surprisingly easy to doctor.”
Nearly five years later, fraud remains a problem. Mueller has expanded the
scope of his article’s research with his recent book “Extra Virginity: The
Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil,” which focusses on the
contamination of olive oil not only by seed oils but by the misuse of the
label “extra virgin” on olive oils that don’t meet that designation’s
standards. Mueller recently took the time to answer questions on olive oil and
the risks involved in its trade; an edited version of the exchange appears
below.
_Why olive oil?_
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